Bosa, on Sardinia’s west coast, is crowded into both sides of the Temo, Sardinia’s only navigable river. If a traveler reaches it from the north, most likely from Alghero, he’s had one of the most scenic rides available in Sardinia.
Bosa’s tall and rather slender houses line the river banks, a section of which, called “Sas Conzas”, is comprised of identical and thus harmonious structures once serving as tanneries. Colorful little houses continue up Serraville hill, which is capped by the ruins of a Castle built by the Malaspina family around 1112. From here one can get a fabulous view of sea, river, mountains and fruited plains.
Inside the castle’s walls the wandering traveler will find a 14th century chapel called Regnos Altos which features some of Sardinia’s most important medieval frescoes uncovered during a recent restoration.
A short walk (or boat ride) down the river brings one to the Romanesque church of St. Peter, which dates back to 1062. The church sits in an idyllic spot amongst an old olive grove with a view toward the town on the hill. If you wander back to the apse, you’ll see an inscribed stone dating from Roman times set amongst the lower coarse of stone.
Specialties of Bosa
A special type of lacemaking evolved in the Bosa area called Bosa Filet Lace as is displayed in the picture to the right shown by 92 year old lacemaker Giovanna Ledda (see a video of Giovanna Ledda). If you are lucky enough, you might while strolling the town center catch a lacemaker working with the door open. The natives are quite friendly and if you show an interest in the work many times they will offer to sell you a panel or two. It might help if you hired a guide in this case, and we recommend Paula Loi in this case.
La Malvasia di Bosa is a concentrated DOC dessert wine produced in the Bosa area in the towns of Bosa, Flussio, Magomadas, Modolo, Suni, Tinnura e Tresnuraghes, grown in vineyards not more than 325 meters above sea level (these towns make up La Strada della Malvasia di Bosa, the Malvasia wine road.
The Mediterranean Spiny Lobster is found all over, but those off the coast of Bosa, arogosta a Bosa are generally accepted to be the best in Sardinia. The place we had them is highly recommended: the Ristorante Sa Pishedda on Via Roma, 2.
Where to Stay in Bosa
VRBO lists a number of Bosa Vacation Rentals for those of you who wish to stay a while and enjoy this interesting village and its beaches, churches, and unique wines.